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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.